Unbuttoning the Past: The True Story of Underwear

Did we only understand the concept of clothing in the 20th century? Not quite. But if your understanding of fashion history comes from Instagram, movies, or TikTok edits, then you’ve only scratched the surface. Let’s look deeper.

1. Redefining Underwear: Then vs. Now

What we call "underwear" today — underpants, bras, boxers — is a relatively modern concept. Historically, underwear referred to any layer worn underneath outerwear to protect it from sweat, dirt, and bodily residue.

• In the West, shirts were considered underwear until the early–mid 20th century.
• Chemises, drawers, neckcloths, collars, and tuckers were all part of under-layers that served hygienic and protective purposes.
• Under kimonos in feudal Japan functioned similarly — acting as washable barriers between the body and outer silk garments.

Clothing was valuable and washing was harsh (often involved boiling). So the innermost layers had to be durable and easier to clean. That defined underwear.

2. Purpose Over Exposure

Today’s underwear often aligns with body contouring, sexuality, and branding. Historically, the goal was functional, not fashionable:

• Protection of garments from human skin, sweat, and oils.
• Ease of washing (which is why these layers had no buttons or closures).
• Modesty within layers (e.g., drawers split at the crotch for practical reasons before modern elastic sewing).

🤠 Cowboys Didn’t Roam Bare-Chested — Even When It Was Hot

Historical sources agree: cowboys almost always wore long-sleeve shirts, waistcoats, and even jackets — despite the heat. Why? Because natural fibers like cotton and wool provided:

• ☀️ Sun protection
• 🌾 Abrasion resistance